We should tell you from the start what you might dislike about this place: the waitresses are in traditional dress, and each of the bedrooms is themed along a particular local craft or metier from the simple Lavandiere (washerwoman) to the grander Vigneron (wine grower). But our inspector found it delightful rather than contrived. ‘It all works perfectly,’ she says. What you find is a very thoughtful, charming, family-run concern, where, if the staff are not related, they seem to be godparents to each other’s children. Each of the rooms is wonderfully decorated with well-chosen pieces of furniture (including some antiques) that fit the relevant theme, and all are very good value. Particularly recommended is L’Ecrivain (the writer) and either of the two bedrooms in the pigeonnier. The restaurant is well established pretty much run as a separate concern. It is very popular and prone to crowds of tourists, but there is a long wooden table and open fire, and the vaulted cellars make an excellent location for the majority of the tables. And the food is delicious.