Milia is unique, and only for those who relish a simple, ecologically correct existence. The ‘village’ is a painstaking recreation of Crete’s not-so-distant past: the Tsourounakis and Makrakis families offer 13 rooms in traditional houses rebuilt between 1982 and 1993 in local stone and wood, and furnished and decorated in the manner of Crete in past decades. There are two communal dining and sitting rooms and there are beautiful views of the mountains of Crete’s wild west from the stone porches of each house. All the buildings stand on the original foundations of the village. The kitchen doubles as a reception area and has a phone for emergencies – one of the few aspects of modern life that touches Milia. Each room is different, but all are equipped only with basic furnishings and decorated with household objects that have been lovingly collected. There is no electricity in the rooms – heating is provided by wood-burning cast-iron stoves – water comes from two mountain springs, and large central boilers heated by wood fires provide hot water. In summer, lighting is powered by solar panels, but in winter a generator provides electricity in the evenings. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the communal dining room; you can make your own tea and coffee.