The Place
Not so much a castle as an entire 13thC fortified hamlet, Gargonza was once a working farm where Dante Aligheri was a guest. Perched high above typical, unspoilt Tuscan landscape, it has been beautifully (but not overly) restored; the ancient walls encircle a cluster of buildings including a tower, a church and an octagonal well. Its uneven paved alleyways are traffic free, although you can drive in with your luggage.
The old Houses of Gargonza, 25 carefully restored houses within the mediveal walls, retain the original features put in by their rural inhabitants centuries prior. Steep wooden staircases, rooms carved into the rock face, tiny windows looking out on the woods and fire-blackened hearths provide an immersive experience. The rooms are comfortable and spacious, with new bathrooms, pretty coordinating fabrics, and cleverly concealed kitchen units. Housekeeping is available upon request.
Breakfast is served in the frantoio (the old olive press), which also houses a sitting room graced with the only TV on the premises. Just below the walls, a rustic restaurant serves excellent local specialities, including homemade pici with duck sauce and superb Chainana beef. The addition of a pool, on a terrace bordered by rosemary hedges, is welcome.
Things to do in the area? Head to TripDog.