We have a cluster of four hotels in this area east of Segovia. This is our clear favourite because the couple who run it stand out as natural hosts who have a way with people. The Lopezes are cultivated and speak several languages – something of a rarity in these parts – and we think that these qualities count if you’re running this type of operation. The mellow four-square building stands in the middle of a peaceful village. Most of downstairs is taken up with a long, relaxing sitting room, with reception at the front. The interior is not so heavily designed as many we’ve seen, but it’s furnished very comfortably and with real taste: country furniture, good fabrics, harmonious rustic colour schemes. The bedrooms continue the rustic-but-elegant theme, each individually furnished and decorated. If you have the cash try room 203, almost a suite, but not allowed to be advertised as such (regulations). The British enjoy number 104 because of its familiar English country house settee. Across the road is a an award-winning restaurant, El Porche de las Casillas, run by the Lopez’s son Alberto, where you can try the local speciality, lamb cooked in the wood burning oven (horno de asnar) until so tender it falls from the bone. Buen Amor? The name is from a classic of Spanish literature, the Libro de Buen Amor.(The Book of Loving Well) by Hita, who knew the village well.