Laguardia is a lovely cobble-stoned town, once a fortified stronghold of the Navarrese kings. Tucked among the streets is Posada Mayor de Migueloa, a former palace, known in its day as the Viana, built in 1619 by Don Martin Sanchez Samaniego. The wine cellar (worth a tour: it’s as old as the building itself) is stuffed with the hotel’s own reputable Rioja, and the restaurant keeps up ably under the direction of Miguel Arrabe and the well-loved Luis Irazar. Don’t forget you are in Basque country here, so the Spanish (both spoken and written) is slightly different. The staff are more than happy to help with the menu and offer suggestions. We enjoyed local dishes such as chorizo soup, served with a plate of hot green peppers. Bedrooms are good value – large, individually decorated, with exposed stone walls, oriental rugs, rich colours, antique furniture. Be careful though: any savings made on the accommodation can be spent in the dining room with little difficulty.