The market town of Salas is off the busy and tortuously winding road between Oviedo and the coast, in the foothills of the Cordillera Cantabrica. The town’s 16thC castle has been restored and converted into a small and simple hotel, keeping much of the character of the original building intact.
The massive doors lead you through the thick walls into the reception area, which also houses the local tourist information desk (both offering good spoken English). The building is constructed around a paved courtyard, with covered cloisters to shelter you from the mountain rain and from the summer sun. On the ground floor, off this patio area, is the cafeteria/restaurant, which is open to the public and serves unfussy dishes with local touches – try their cakes made with rice, milk and sugar, served with freshly brewed coffee. The bedrooms are mostly on the first floor and are very plain but stylish, with shutters at the windows, wooden floors and modern bathrooms tiled in red and white. There are two sitting rooms upstairs; one has a television, games and books, and both have open fires in the winter. All the windows are double-glazed too, so it should be snug.